We get up this morning, sad to be leaving Santorini but excited to see what is in store for us in Crete. We have decided to explore the Santorini beaches and a local winery. We also want to drive to the lighthouse at the end of the island to see the beautiful views from the cliffs. After our last terrace breakfast, armed with directions, maps (with no street names), water and assurances from the hotel that driving in Santorini is "very simple", we are off. Seth is driving, Jamie is purportedly navigating. In reality, Jamie is confused, feels angry at the map that only distinguishes roads by red and orange and Seth is strongly considering abandoning Jamie with the horses that are on the side of the road. After some "discussion", it is determined that we are finally on the right path and we make it to our destinations. The beaches are fascinating because they aren't white, but are red and black due to the volcano. Our favorite is the red beach, a small beach carved out of the mountain and requiring a bit of a hike to enjoy. The black beaches are unique but very touristy, which take away from their charm (think Seaside Heights).
The highlight of our driving adventure is Galavanas Vineyard, which makes wine both traditionally and using modern methods. This is where Giada actually went grape stomping when she visited Santorini with the Food Network and, sure enough, we were told that grape stomping is part of the vineyard's "traditional" wine making component and occurs once a year. While we did not get a chance to stomp on the grapes ourselves (instantaneous fermentation would likely occur should Seth's bare feet touch grapes), we did get to take a tour of the vineyard, try a few of their different wines and purchased two bottles to bring home (one of which we previously enjoyed at Vanilia restaurant in Fira a few nights ago).
Finally, with wine on our palates, we headed to Luckys in Fira, which was a "fast food" restaurant that served gyros and souvlaki. We had one of each in a pita, and the place was absolutely delicious. One can only imagine the business Luckys would do if situated near NYU after a Grateful Dead reunion.
After leaving Luckys and getting thoroughly lost amongst the very few roads that is Santorini, we finally returned to Anastasis to say our goodbyes, pack up the car and head to the airport (which, by the way, was one of the few uneventful Santorini driving experiences). Our flights were also uneventful (despite being graced with a mail order bride and her "husband" on the Santorini to Athens flight) and we finally made it to Crete in one piece. After a minor mishap with some luggage (ie, Europeans being Europeans), we found our driver and were off to Ammos Hotel, outside of Chania and about 30 minutes from the airport.
Crete was a big change from the quiet of Imerovigli in Santorini. It is a large island and very city like but luckily our hotel has a pool and is situated off the main roads and on the beach. Our room has a lovely view of the beach, a comfy bed, sofa and kitchen. The bathroom has some visitors which we plan to have removed in the morning by an exterminator.
Seth is hungry from the travel (or life in general) so we go downstairs and are pleasantly surprised to discover our hotel has a well known and regarded restaurant. We share salmon with lentils, a cucumber and tomato salad and an appetizer of tomatoes and feta and olives on crostini bread. The other guests are quite friendly and strike up conversation. At the end of the meal, we are of course offered shots of Raki, the local Crete liquor. Jamie runs the other way but Seth good naturedly shares one with our waitress and a French couple and yet another with just the French man. Isn't he so nice to take the free shots and save face for all of America?
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